Italy 2018

Italy – Venice, Rome, Pompeii and the Amalfi coast!

We spent endless hours trying to design the most epic Italy trip possible within our budget and we are confident that you can benefit from all of our efforts.

But first, a little backstory. Our trip to Italy was to occur in 2017, however, this happened:

We ended up re-scheduling our trip for the following year and decided to go in June, instead of the originally planned end of July to mid-August. The appendix event ended up being a blessing in disguise! We checked the weather in Italy while back home in Pittsburgh and it would have been blistering hot – around 100 degrees F. Taking this into account we booked earlier the second time, June, and we found much cheaper airfare too ($615 instead of $1,100!). Buy trip insurance it’s worth it! We were able to book another vacation to the Grand Cayman islands, and who doesn’t love bonus trips?!

Venice Italy

Our June 2018 trip started out in Venice with Beth falling off of the airport shuttle bus due to the exhaustion of staying awake the entire flight (luckily she didn’t get hurt!). We flew into Marco Polo airport and bought bus tickets to take us into Venice while waiting for our luggage. Once you safely exit the bus we recommend you immediately purchase Vaporetto tickets for the proper amount of days you are staying. Be sure to have Euros on hand to pay for public transportation. As soon we exited the bus we saw this shop and bought our Vaporetto tickets so we would have one less thing to worry about.

Giudecca

After re-fueling with a quick bite of pizza and a glass of Prosecco at our first restaurant stop on the island of Giudecca (across from the main island of Venice) we settled into our Giudecca apartment. We booked a lagoon view apartment through Airbnb and as soon as we entered the apartment, we knew we would have a great trip. The open windows created a refreshing breeze while we took in our lagoon view. However, you must know to close the windows prior to sunset to prevent a mosquito invasion at night! We learned from watching the locals that they close their windows and then turn on the AC for the night, but not until an initial night of mosquito buzzing and biting. Don’t make the same mistake as us, our daughter reminded us for days that the bites were our fault!

We really enjoyed staying on Giudecca which allowed us to enjoy the view of Venice from across the canal. For breakfast, we would recommend La Palanca where we had our morning cappuccino and apricot pastry at one of their outdoor tables prior to starting our daily adventures. Another hot spot on was L’isola dei gelati, which is right next to the Redentore water taxi stop. They make homemade gelato on site. Our teen kept asking to go back. (Not that we put up much of a fight)

We stayed on Giudecca for 3 nights and explored so much of Venice proper. San Marco Square, Saint Mark’s Basilica, Doge’s Palace, the Grand Canal, and all of the back alleys where there is something wonderful to see at every turn. The saying is to “get lost in Venice” and as much as Chris tried not to, it certainly happened a number of times while wandering the city. This is where some of the real fun is in Venice as you stumble into a new Piazza, find a new coffee shop, cross a new canal bridge or experience a Gondola serenade.

Venice proper

Burano

We also took a day trip to the island of Burano with all of the colorful painted houses. Take a lot of Instagram worthy pictures there! The restaurant that we tried Trattoria da Romano, was not the quality of Venice or Giudecca, so we recommend you have a meal before you go or take snacks to hold you over.

As we previously mentioned, June was a great time to visit Venice. If you haven’t seen on the news, fall/winter (esp. November) can bring significant flooding to Venice called Acqua Alta or High Water during high tide. You will want to take that into consideration when planning a trip to Venice.

Rome Italy

After saying good-bye to Venice (until June of 2020) we took a high speed train to Rome (buy tickets online 3-4 months before your trip for best prices and assigned seating). Everyone warned us to be careful in Rome and that it would be a hard transition from walkable Venice with no traffic to a huge bustling city with pick pockets. We were immediately in love with Rome! Taxis are lined up in front of the train station so it is easy and efficient to get transportation to your hotel or apartment. The city reminded me of Washington D.C. (on a much bigger scale of course) and felt very comfortable and at ease. Traveling to Washington D.C. a few times for weekend getaways and family trips, gave us good practice at navigating around a bigger city.

Walking Into History

Our charming 3rd floor apartment (sadly no longer listed on Airbnb) had so many special touches that we felt at home as soon as we arrived. We had a small private balcony that we could sit out and enjoy a drink at the end of a long day of sight seeing. Our first night in Rome, we took a walk from our apartment to head to dinner and to check out the area. In less than 15 minutes, we were staring right at the Colosseum and it didn’t even register that I was looking at a nearly 2000 year old building! To say it was surreal would be an understatement! Nothing can prepare you for seeing it in person. We opted to have dinner overlooking the Colosseum and we were instantly in love with the Old World.

We stayed for 5 nights in our Rome apartment and while we were there we had plenty of time to sight-see and eat at the numerous restaurants. Though most places we ate were very enjoyable, we have to spotlight the vegan gelato at Olive Dolci, which was excellent even though we are not vegan (just wanted to try it as it was close to the apartment and was highly rated).

Formal Tours – Walks of Italy

If it is your first time to Rome we would recommend booking tours so you don’t waste vacation time standing in long lines. We used Walks of Italy to see the Colosseum(including underground), The Trevi Fountain(tour not needed but was included), The Pantheon and the Vatican/Sistine Chapel. Be sure to book tours that align with your tolerance for being with a group. Keep in mind that the tours can be expensive, but will allow you to see aspects you wouldn’t otherwise be able to see and save time/add convenience.

We have to call out the Vatican/Sistine Chapel for being one of the few things we didn’t really enjoy. Our guide warned us ahead of time that the Vatican intentionally moves as many people through as possible to drive in the tourist dollars. It was great seeing the amazing art of Michelangelo’s masterpiece but it would have been more enjoyable if we were not crammed in like sardines, timed, and being yelled at over the loudspeaker for “Silence!” by the guards.

We loved hanging out in the piazzas with an Aperol Spritz when it was time to take a break from walking. Piazza Novana was one of the most breathtaking spots to hang out.

Vatican

Getting Around on Foot

Pompeii Italy

After Rome, we headed to Herculaneum to see the ruins as an extra excursion on our way to Pompeii. It is a smaller city that is near Naples that also got destroyed in the Mt. Vesuvius eruption in 79 AD. Our favorite pizza in Italy was enjoyed a couple blocks from Herculaneum in Ercolano!

Again we used the high speed train to get from Rome to Naples and then switched to Campania Express which we recommend over the Circumvesuviana which the locals use. The Campania is more reliable, has less stops and AC, has more room for luggage, etc. It is targeted to tourists and worth the additional euros. However, keep in mind that it is still Italy and the Italians do things on their own time, so even the Campania Express ran a little behind schedule (in case you have a connection like we did on a ferry.)

Our Pompeii apartment was located between the ancient Pompeii ruins and the new town of Pompei which increased the walking but allowed us to easily get to both locations as well as the supermarket ( to grab some Italian meats, cheeses and local wines). Our host told us about the best places to eat, including Todisco which appears underwhelming on the outside, but once inside it has great character. We loved the food as well as the homebrew beer!

The Long Awaited Mt. Vesuvius Tour

The Mt. Vesuvius climb was something that Chris was really looking forward to! We woke up to terrible weather with heavy down pours and we wanted to cancel. We talked with our host about canceling, but thankfully (in hindsight) he didn’t understand our request. He had called to make our reservations for a driver to pick us up and the tour was still on! Nearing the base of the mountain, a policeman came down to tell us that the mountain was closed. Turning an 8 passenger van around in the middle of the mountainous road was tricky. But, minutes later the mountain was re-opened and we headed back up!

At the base, we bought ponchos to help protect us against the wind and the rain. The climb led us to such amazing sights. We had to remind ourselves that we were literally walking beside and looking into an active volcano! Once at the top in the pelting rain we felt invigorated and proud of ourselves. When we reflect back on that day, we wouldn’t have had it any other way!

Sorrento Day Trip

We took a day trip to Sorrento from Pompeii so we could practice using the local trains and ferries. This is a rare time that Google maps didn’t work out well, but that is why we practiced. It appeared to be a 10 minute walk from the Sorrento train station to the port of Sorento; however, much of it was vertical serpentine roads or steps that would be very difficult with luggage. A taxi was the only sure way to get connected from train to the ferry in time.

Amalfi Coast Italy

After feeling secure in knowing how to get to the Amalfi Coast with our practice run to Sorrento, we headed to Capri, Anacapri, and the gorgeous Amalfi Coast. We climbed the Phoenician Steps from Capri to Anacapri and the 921 stone steps are worth it for this breathtaking view! It was our opinion that climbing up may be more physically challenging but should be less dangerous than climbing down. After completing it, we would still recommend heading up if you are physically able to.

Phoenician Steps

Capri and Anacapri

Our Stay in Amalfi Coast

In Amalfi we stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called, Donna Giulia. This is a wonderful place with an awesome view, but please keep in mind, it is for two guests only. We found out the hard way when we arrived with our teen and realized that there was only one bed and that she had to sleep on the floor. Whoops! Mom fail! At least they had a wool blanket in the closet for her to sleep on and she was a good sport about it. Breakfast is amazing, so if you are a couple and want to go, I would highly recommend it as long as you are able to climb many steps because, as with most places in Amalfi, it’s tucked into the mountainside.

Beaches

During our stay in Amalfi, we only spent a few hours on the beach. We are not the type to stay in one place. Although the beach was rocky compared to the white sands of the Caribbean (see Aruba, Jamaica, Grand Cayman), we rented some beach chairs. We were not used to walking on the rocks at all! We hung up our suits and towels and headed to the back streets to check out the local scene. By only staying in the tourist driven areas, you won’t experience the true character of the town.

Ravello

On our last day, we wanted to finish our time on the Amalfi Coast by seeing the sights of Ravello. We worked up an appetite as we climbed countless stairs on our way to the focused destination of The Terrace of Infinity. Even though it would be a very late lunch, our teen refused to stop unless the restaurant had Fettucine, and we walked most of the way to the Terrace before she found one that served it. The spot that she found was marked on the main walkway but set very far back and well hidden. Once we arrived, we were delighted with the absolutely incredible views.

Terrace of Infinity

After lunch we headed to the gardens at Villa Cimbrone which is open to the public every day of the year from 9 a.m. until sunset. We walked through the beautiful gardens, taking photos at every turn. It had started to rain about mid-way through our walk, but we were determined to see the crown jewel – The Terrace of Infinity.

Getting Around the Amalfi Coast

City Sightseeing tourist bus is only €5 from Amalfi to Ravello. It is very convenient and the view from the bus is great. Check the schedule of the City Sightseeing buses to make sure of the hours. A taxi was €50 just to get down the mountain to Amalfi which is only a 7km/4 mile drive. We bought our city bus tickets at a lively sandwich bar, Al San Domingo and enjoyed a limoncello. The cost of the bus ticket is €3. A little wait time was much better than the cost of the taxi! Make sure to plan around the City Sightseeing or city bus schedule to save yourself some hassle and euros. Also prepare yourself for the most adventurous ride of your life! The serpentine mountainous roads are pictured below. Kudos to the drivers of the Amalfi Coast!

Back to Venice

Our last full day in Italy was travelling back to Venice so we could fly out the next day. Flights from Venice were significantly cheaper than flying out from closer cities. We had a very rigid schedule to keep starting with the ferry from Amalfi to Salerno. Once in Salerno, we caught a local train to Naples. From Salerno we transferred to a high speed train to Venice.

Trenitalia trains

The Trenitalia site does a nice job of selecting trains to get you from origin to destination, and are actually pretty fun to ride (illy espresso on board!). Our biggest stressor was figuring out where to go and what side to stand on when transferring trains. When you have a quick transfer, read signs as you exit to see where you are headed next. It is similar to an airport connection. Otherwise, give yourself extra time between trains to make it less stressful. We kept all of our transportation info and tickets in a notebook sleeve for the next leg of our trip.

The Final Night

Arriving in Venice we were happy to have an apartment with a hot tub and an outdoor patio. Chris went out to get us dinner at a deli on Fondamenta Cannaregio. Elena and I soaked in the hot tub until Chris returned with salted meats, cheeses, artichokes, olives and bread. Simple and delicious and just what we needed to finish our stay in Italy.

Flying Home

We caught the shuttle bus line #5 at the Piazzale Roma to get to Marco Polo airport. It is €8 for a one-way ticket. You can buy your tickets at the AVTO ticket office or machine. The buses run every 15 minutes.

We hope you enjoyed our adventures as you make your own plans to Italy. Writing this has made us want to go back!

What are your favorite things to see and do in Italy? Is southern Italy, Sicily etc. a must see?

Let us know in the comments below and Viaggi sicuri!